Bra measuring

Harriett has recently put her foot down on my lingerie posting, she says I am to post more vintage blogs! However, hopefully if I post enough vintage pictures of pretty lingerie then she’ll let this one slide. Buying lingerie can often be difficult, many brands vary in size dramatically. There are certain brands that will measure a woman in a particular way, the bra will fit wonderfully and the customer will be perfectly satisfied until she walks into another brand to find either the brand do not stock her size or the other bra fits completely differently. The customer is basically scammed into thinking she can only buy bras in one shop.

This is due to a recent trend in lingerie where a company will make their own flattering rules of sizing. For example the general correct size I should wear is a 30D, however other brands would measure me as a 26F! Other horror stories include being measured according to stock levels, another brand may measure me as a 34B if they have a lot of that size to sell.

Never fear faithful followers I am here to give you the low down on fitting a bra without a tape measure. All you need is to walk into a bra shop with your a pair of lovely jubblies cased in your current bra.

Before you even take off your top consider what current bra and dress size you wear. On average a size 12 wears a 34 back size, this goes up and down two inches per dress size. E.g. a size 10 lady normally wears a 32 back size.

Go into the changing room and look at the bra you’re wearing, use it as a starting point. Consider how old the bra is, bras stretch, so a new bra should fit on the looser hooks. However an old bra may do up fully, if the bra is too loose and ridding up the back you may need a smaller back size. If the bra barely does up and is uncomfortable, you need a bigger back size.

Consider cup size, are you spilling over? Is the center of the bra not touching the rib cage? Are the sides of the underwire not touching your bone structure? You may need a bigger cup. If there is too much space in the cup, you need a smaller cup size.

Now select a few bras.

If the back is too tight but the cup feels right, change back size and visaversa. If the center of the bra does not sit against your bone structure, try a bigger cup size.If you spill over the top, try a bigger cup size. Most women tend to wear too large of a back size, make sure you pick a back size that supports you. With a customer it can take me few bras to get the fit right! If you're in a store that sells different brands (such as Bordello or Fairy Goth Mother) try to stick to one brand so the sizing is coherent.

This is probably a lot simpler than you thought it was? The truth is bra fitting is all about fit rather than measurements. All the other tricks are in cuts of bras, for example a small chest is aided by padding.

Good luck in bra hunting, Aimee. xx

Flowers and Thifting.

We haven't had much luck in the charity shops this winter, which has caused us

a bit of a set back on compiling out spring wardrobes. Usually the second hand

stores are filled with others off casts by january but unfortunately this year

doesn't seem to be the case. However I spied an old chocolate box in the

cabinet of my local cancer research and when asking to look inside, found

these gems, my only horde of 1940's items for months. For £4 I got my hands

on these adorable hat/veil pins, hair slides on their original card, silk thread

and a pearl and bore bristle clothes brush. The flowers are ranunculus, my

favourites, given to me by my boyfriend for valentines. Have you found any

bargains lately?

Harriett x

Vintage Magazine Scans

This weeks scans are from la Petit Echo de la Mode, 15 January

1950. Printed in the height of the 'New Look' notice the longer

hem lines, sloped shoulders and fuller skirts which shocked

post war populations. I have roughly translated a few sentences

for us to enjoy!

This royal blue skirt suit and cape is delightful, the plaid lining

provides a really lovely contrast and the umbrella appeals to the reality

I have experienced of a January in London!

"Fashions in Paris"

"Evening gown in duchess satin. Full skirt covered

with a tunic plunging back.Blouse opens on a large collar."

The draped ruffle detailing around the neck line of the front dress is so

elegant, though it did shock me how 60's the checked cape looks.

I

"Evening dress in black satin or mandarin orange. A tunic shape

of even lighter fabric is placed over the long sheath skirt. The tunic

can be raised and transformed into a cape. "

This would really sweet on a white cotton blouse for summer.

"Felt or cloth, decorated with feathers, the new caps are reduced in

size."

I actually can't pick my favourite, they're all so nice!

Such lovely gathered detailing and the denim blue makes this the

perfect work or day dress.

"This is the trimming today in favour, use a yoke shape to form openwork pattern on the

front of a bodice."

I love the details in machine stitching as well as the short cropped hair styles.

The sweet heart neck line is also a pretty touch.

I love the cord ending on the pockets of this cardigan, maybe one

day I will translate this page and knit it up for myself.

"Flannel gown whose pleated skirt is composed of two panels"

I have an orange dress with a similar button arrangement but

a much fuller skirt, I wish I had that navy suit though, the

scalloped edging on the jacket is divine!

"dress fabric wool bodice crosses under four buttons. The skirt folds

flat in two front panels and three buttons highlight two large pockets"

Love the military style green double breasted jacket, with its

contrasting maroon cuffs, collar and buttons. Theres something

quite utilitarian about this one.

Thanks for reading, next week Petit Echo de la Mode, 12th February

1950 for some fantastic plaid inspired designs and sharp winter

tailoring.

Harriett x

Eloping to Lewes

This Saturday, Aimee and I eloped away from London to do a wee bit

of antique shopping, dragging our friend Erika along in tow. Lewes is a

small town in East Sussex close to where I grew up. It's highstreet is

littered with flee markets, antique stores and charity shops, so as you

can imagine we were in our element!

Our day started with a large cup of coffee, we wrote lists to remind

us of what we where shopping for. Aimee was desperate to get her

hands on a pretty vintage umbrella, whilst I was after hats, as

per usual.

I fell in love with all these items, mounted butterflies, 1930's pink

plastic match case, Victorian camisole, 1930's beaded bag and 1950's

lady lamp, could you imagine when the shades on, it must look like her

hat! Unfortunately I have neither the cash or space to take them all

home with me. Luckily I have a similar little bag, must dig it out

of its draw!

A few more pretty things, I was amazed by how similar the original

fabric on the 1940's chair was to some modern 'Cath Kidston' prints.

The wedding dress was displayed with a photograph of the original

owner on her special day, doesn't she look beautiful! The date on the

back was 1947. The last snap is of a really cute hand appliqued felt

bag. I've got a bit of a felt applique fetish as Aimee pointed out in a

previous post, so I really loved this bit of needlework.

Finally I'd like to introduce Erika to everyone, she's a tote bag collecting

book reading Scandinavian and our closest friend. Here her and Aimee

are posing in front of the lewes brewery, the home of Harveys, which

since 1790 has been making traditional Sussex beer, unfortunately,

we are strictly cider or champaign ladies.

After an exhausting day of shopping, we popped into Bills, an organic

produce store and restaurant for a spot of supper and bucks fizz.

Aimee managed to find her umbrella, Erika made of with a rather

playful orange silk 50's skirt, and I grabbed a pair of 40's

summer shorts for £1! I am sure we will be sharing these with you

soon! I leave you with a picture of us with sun in our eyes.

Harriett x

Hair Tutorial: Victory Roll Floral Updo

I often get asked how I do my hair when I'm out on the town and have been meaning

to make a tutorial for a while now, so heres how to make the style I wore today, sorry

it's not a video, I'm not feeling that brave yet! I'd love to hear some feedback on this,

whether I included enough steps of the process and such, please ask if you need

any more tips! Also I'll have some clearer pictures next time, it was dark when I

took these so unfortunately they are a little orange and shadowy!

What you will need.

1. Bobby pins in appropriate colour, in my case blonde! The more of these the merrier, it only takes a few to hold my hair but its incredibly thin so not at all heavy, I'd make sure you've got a good handful for thicker locks.

2. Hair Spray, whatever brand you prefer, I'm rather fond of L'Oreal Elnett.

3. Some sort of hair ornament, I've gone for a 30's silk flower but you could use almost any clip you fancied.

4. One elastic hair band.

5. Hair brush! The more bristles the better back-combing ability!

Step 1.

First you want to part your hair on the side and draw it into a low pony tail and the nape of your neck and secure it in place with the elastic band, leaving a small section at the front to form the front roll.

Take this section and back comb the underneath quite thoroughly until it stands out from your scalp. This is going to give you the volume you need to form the roll shape.

Step 2.

Now you want to smooth down the top strands of hair to make sure your hair is nice and neat for when you form your roll.

Step 3.

To form your front roll you need to wrap the ends of the section of hair around two of your fingers rolling it up and towards your forehead, making sure the hair remains neat and in shape with the other.

Step 4.

You may have to form the roll a few times before your happy, it usually takes me about three tries! When you have the roll in shape against your forehead, secure it with bobby pins trying to hide them as you go.

Its then time to form the back roll, take the tip of your ponytail, and in the same fashion as before, begin to roll the hair up towards the nape of your neck. When its in place secure it with a few pins. I usually find pushing them through the elastic band keeps it in place.

Step 5.

Before you pin your flower in place apply generous amounts of hairspray, especially the

front roll. You may want to gently smooth down the lose strands of hair with your hands.

Voila!

Don't worry if its not as neat as you would like the first time, its took me months to master

the victory roll, and even I give up sometimes!

Harriett xx

A modern pin up's guide to lingerie: Valentines

Yes faithful readers it is that time of year again, a day which can taint even the happily single gal's day and disappoint the loved up lady. There is definitely something about Valentines day that sends a lot of us into a "Pride and Prejudice" inspired panic, however, let us all remember that it is a mere celebration of all things consumerist and kitsch. It also gives me an excuse to show you some gorgeous lingerie to suggest to your sweetheart or to buy for yourself.

"Fgm-redjolie" from £20 by "Kiss Me Deadly" stocked by fairygothmother.co.uk

First up is this new delicious set by "Kiss Me Deadly", a vintage inspired long-line bra with a practical but pretty suspender belt and briefs. I love how this set is so gorgeous but very functional (note my earlier "Suspender Belt" post), the set has previously come in a very 50's peach and has been revamped in vampish black for the season. My work "Fairy Goth Mother" has recently teamed up with "Kiss Me Deadly" to create a matching underbust corset which can be seen on the "Fairy Goth Mother" website. The photo is also shown with stockings made by Cervin, a French brand who are stocked at the "Fairy Goth Mother" boutique.

"Whip me Stockings" by "Agent Provocateur" £35 agentprovocateur.com

Speaking of stockings, here are the naughty but nice "Whip me" stockings by "Agent Provocateur". I've loved these for a while now, but £35 seems a unreasonable amount for some thing so inappropriate/ impractical. I wish there was a more public version, maybe "Love me"?! I'd snap those up a treat!

"Private" collection by "Fleur of England" from around £60 stocked by fleurofengland.com and the "Fairy Goth Mother" Boutique

I cannot stop drooling over this beautiful set by "Fleur of England". Made from divine burgundy silk and delicate lace, this set is a sight to behold. The bra flirtatiously opens in the middle, while the briefs are tie sides. The "Fleur of England" website also varies the set which includes a suspender belt and a babydoll.

"Bow heart pasties" £28 by Opheliafancy.com

Lastly are these little pretty pasties by "Ophelia Fancy", I've been a fan of the Brighton boutique for a while now and these are a perfect example of a lovely small gift. If you are a boyfriend reading, a great idea would be a pair of pasties and pretty pair of red frilly knickers. When in Rome, I say!

Hope you've enjoyed my favorites, in regards to Valentines remember to Keep calm and carry on!

Aimee xx